The project car that we will be using for the installation is a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. The great thing about the Hallman Evolution Boost Controller kit is that you can adjust your boost from inside the car. This is really great for setting your initial boost for the very first time. Now you can set your boost within a minute or two and never stop the car. No more looking for a place to pull over and having to get out and pop the hood to make adjustments.

Installing this kit is not hard, but it does take more time than installing your standard under the hood boost controller. If you have 3 - 6 hours (depending on the car) you can end up with an excellent installation. For example, the Mitsubishi Evolution installation requires more dissasembly than installing this kit in a Eagle Talon. A little extra time spent now will mean having a trick and professional install. Well, lets get to it.

Step 1: Interior, Adjustment Knob Installation

• We decided to mount the adjustment knob inside the compartment located below the temperature controls. This will be a good spot that will be aesthetically pleasing and also easy to reach.

• First you must remove the compartment so that you can work on mounting the adjustment knob

• The compartment is easily removed by taking out the two phillips head screws in the top of the compartment.

Step 2: Interior, Mounting the Adjustment Knob

• First, lay out the knob where you would like it to be located, be sure that it does not interfere with being able to replace the screws when reinstalling the compartment.

• Next, mark you holes with a pen

• Drill your two holes for the mounting bracket with a 3/16th inch drill bit.

• We will need to drill a hole in the back of the compartment for the cable to come through. We used a square to center our hole so that it will line up with the adjustment knob.

• We used the square to extend the line down and mark our hole on the back side of the compartment.

• Drill a 5/8th's inch hole in the back of the compartment.

• Install a grommet with a 3/8th's inch ID hole in it. This will fit and support the cable very nicely.

• Mount the adjustment knob bracket using very short machine screws and nuts.

• Here is your finished product.

Step 3: Interior, Drilling the Firewall

This step should take some thought and serious measuring. Measure twice - Drill once! Look at both sides of the firewall, you do not want to drill through a brake line, AC line, or Heater core hose. On the Mitsubishi Evo about the only option that you have to be safe on both sides of the firewall is to drill here. (Click on picture for a close-up)

• Here you can see the hole that we drilled.

• We installed another 3/8th's ID grommet to protect the cable and seal the hole where it will pass through the firewall.

Step 4: Exterior / Interior, installing the cable

• It will be much easier to install the cable through the firewall if the Strut Tower Brace is removed.

• After the cable is installed it can be routed behind the kick plate and through the dash.

• Next, route the cable through the back of the compartment and attach it to the knob assembly, then the compartment can be mounted back into the dash of the car.

• We decided to mount the valve to the top of the cam position sensor on the side of the valve cover. To do this we had to remove the hard line from the bracket that feed vacuum to the BOV. Instead we installed a soft line from hard line off of the intake manifold to the BOV. This allowed us to mount the valve to the cam sensor. (click on the picture for a close-up).

Step 5: Exterior, Installing the Hallman valve

• We recommend taking the boost control solenoid out of the system when installing a boost controller. This is located under the factory airbox in the Evo. We suggest leaving the solenoid plugged into the factory wiring harness but using a vacuum cap to plug off the input of the solenoid (click on the picture for a close-up).

• Now it is time to hook up the vacuum lines from the boost source and the wastegate actuator to the Hallman boost control valve. It is much easier to access the boost source and wastegate actuator if you remove the fan from the radiator. This is a bit difficult to get out of the engine bay. You have to remove a portion of the upper intercooler pipe to have enough room to get the fan out of the car. Make sure that you have enough room to pull it out so that you do not damage the radiator.

• The picture is labeled so that you can see where the lines should be hooked up so that the boost controller functions properly. The line that is labeled "A" is your boost source line and needs to be connected to the input of the Hallman valve. The line that is labeled "B" is your wastegate actuator line and needs to be connected to the output of the Hallman valve. (Click on the picture for a close-up).

• At this point you are ready to put the car back together. Once you have double checked everything it will be time to set the boost. Start with the Hallman boost control valve adjusted to stock boost. make sure that the knob it turned all of the way counter-clockwise. Drive the car and monitor your boost with an aftermarket boost gauge. Start turning the knob clockwise a whole turn. Check the boost again and repeat the above steps until the desired level is reached.